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A Taste of Heaven is a labor of love

Staff writer

Gretchen Unruh was unsuspectingly hurled into the world of baking, a world she learned to love.

She started working at Hometown Foods, now Carlsons’ IGA, when she moved to Marion nearly 26 years ago. She worked in the meat department before being moved to the deli.

She was a manager when the storeowner told her that she was going to learn how to decorate cakes.

“I can’t do that,” she responded. “I have too much on my plate.”

The owner had been the previous cake decorator and realized Unruh’s potential. Unruh’s perfectionism was an asset when it came to decorating cakes, it’s a quality that permeates her entire operation.

“I’m very critical of myself,” she said. “I work for perfection in everything.”

Unruh opened Gretchen’s Taste of Heaven a little more than two weeks ago in Marion. She took over the restaurant vacated by Mom and Dad’s Café at 113 S. Freeborn St.

“I’ve always wanted a little bakery,” Unruh said, “someplace where I could sell good coffee, good sweets, and good food.”

Unruh makes items from scratch as much as possible. She wakes at 1 a.m. to be at her shop by 2 a.m. baking breads, cakes, rolls, and pastries for the day. Although Gretchen’s Taste of Heaven is open 6 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sunday, Unruh has stayed as late as 6 p.m., cleaning up and preparing food for the next day.

“I went home, sat down, and fell asleep,” Unruh said. “I don’t mind putting in the hours because it’s something I really love.”

The hours go into making different homemade breads including Swedish Limpa bread, a sweet rye inspired by Unruh’s native Minnesota. Thus far, Unruh’s top selling items are cinnamon rolls and turnovers.

The bakery is open for breakfast — the top selling breakfast item being homemade biscuits and gravy — and will soon have a lunch menu, featuring a special, soup, and a simple sandwich on homemade bread.

Unruh said the appearance of a meal is the most important part of her job.

“If it looks good, it’s going to taste good,” she said.

Her most ambitious creation thus far was a four-tiered cake for her daughter’s wedding.

Unruh previously owned a greenhouse and flower shop. Her goal was to do an entire wedding — complete with catering and decorating — something she accomplished with her daughter’s wedding.

While Unruh has had other businesses in Marion before, she’s never enjoyed working as much as she is now. She said she wakes, without the assistance of an alarm, at 1 a.m., ready to start the day.

She is always experimenting with new dishes and is open to customer suggestions. She has previously worked in kitchens at Bethel and Tabor colleges, The Water’s Edge in Hesston, and Kerby House in Abilene. Unruh’s wealth of restaurant experience has given her the knowledge to make Gretchen’s Taste of Heaven work.

Unruh is grateful for assistance from local business professionals.

“If it wasn’t for (city economic development director) Doug Kjellin and (Central National Bank president) Todd heitschmidt, I wouldn’t be here,” she said.

Her penchant for baking goods from scratch is something her customers appreciate. One customer from Lyons who works in Herington, eats at Gretchen’s Taste of Heaven every day. He tried in vain to persuade her to open a restaurant in Lyons.

“No, I’m staying right here,” she said.

Last modified Sept. 2, 2010

 

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